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香奈兒奢侈回旋鏢惹怒澳大利亞土著,被指侮辱文化傳統

近日,法國奢侈品牌香奈兒一款售價高達1460美元(約合人民幣10000元)的“回旋鏢”在網絡上引發論戰。這款木頭和樹脂制成的跨界產品被指侮辱澳大利亞土著文化?;匦S是澳大利亞土著民族的傳統武器,是土著文化象征符號之一,曾被應用到2000年悉尼奧運會火炬設計當中。一起來看看香奈兒的回旋鏢究竟為何惹怒了澳大利亞土著。

 

香奈兒奢侈回旋鏢惹怒澳大利亞土著,被指侮辱文化傳統

 

You've done your shopping but there's just one thing missing, the thing you absolutely don't need but somehow still want to set yourself apart?
你已經掃貨完畢,但還少一件商品。它絕對不是你需要的,但是不知道為什么,你就是想擁有它來顯示自己的與眾不同。

Look no further. French luxury brand Chanel has your back: a boomerang for $1,460. A hefty price tag.
不用再找了,法國奢侈品牌香奈兒懂你,你可以買這款售價1460美元(約合人民幣10000元)的天價回旋鏢。

Surely it must be designed by a famous indigenous artist. Sadly, no.
人們都以為這么貴的回旋鏢肯定是由著名的澳大利亞土著藝術家設計的。不幸的是,事實并非如此。

The indigenous community in Australia says this is yet another example of crass cultural appropriation.
澳大利亞土著群體表示,這是又一個愚蠢至極的文化挪用典范。

 

香奈兒奢侈回旋鏢惹怒澳大利亞土著,被指侮辱文化傳統

 

The item is listed on Chanel's website under Other Accessories in the 2017 Spring-Summer pre-collection, along with other gadgets like a pair of beach rackets with balls for £2,860.
這款回旋鏢被掛在香奈兒網站2017春夏系列預展的“其他裝飾品”分類下,與之為伴的小物件還包括一副帶球的沙灘球拍,售價為2860美元(約合人民幣19700元)。

Spending a little extra to give you that air of luxury should of course not come as a surprise when it comes to brands in the league of Chanel.
讓你多花點錢來營造奢侈感是香奈兒這樣大牌的套路,這當然沒什么可驚訝的。

It's the name you pay for and the perceived status that comes with it and Chanel will likely not be bothered about having that pointed out to them.
你花錢買的是牌子和隨之而來的身份感,香奈兒可能不會介意有人拿這點說事兒。

But accusations of offending or even humiliating an entire indigenous culture are a different ball game and the French luxury brand certainly is feeling some heat.
但是冒犯甚至侮辱整個土著文化的指控就另當別論了,而香奈兒的確招來了一些憤怒。

"It's simply a misappropriation of aboriginal culture," Gabrielle Sullivan, chief executive of the Indigenous Arts Code, tells the BBC.
“土著藝術規范”組織首席執行官加布里埃爾•沙利文告訴BBC:“這是擅自挪用土著文化。”

Her organisation has been lobbying against imported and mass produced fake aboriginal artefacts for years.
多年來,該組織一直在游說人們抵制進口的和大規模生產的假冒土著手工制品。

"Chanel is a big company and they really should know better. I don't see how this is different from a cheap fake boomerang sold at the airport. It's just an expensive version of this."
“香奈兒是一家大企業,他們真的應該更好地了解土著文化。我不明白這和機場里販賣的山寨廉價回旋鏢有什么區別,只不過是價格更高而已。”

A cultural symbol
一種文化的象征

Boomerangs have traditionally been used by Australia's indigenous people as a hunting weapon.
自古以來,澳大利亞土著人就將回旋鏢當作狩獵的武器。

But they are more than that, explains aboriginal artist Bibi Barba. They carry significant cultural attachments, are used to pass culture and tradition from one generation to the next.
但土著藝術家比比•巴爾巴解釋道,回旋鏢不僅僅是一種武器。它們承載了重要的文化信仰,并將土著文化和傳統一代代傳承下去。

"They are a cultural symbol for us," she tells the BBC. "A lot [of] indigenous artists do artwork on them and this artwork is different in different parts of the country, it holds different meaning."
巴爾巴告訴BBC:“對我們來說,這是一種文化象征。許多土著藝術家對它們進行藝術加工,而澳大利亞每個地區的藝術加工不盡相同,包含著不同的意義。”

But it's not just the artwork on the boomerangs that carries cultural signifiers and tradition - even things like the selection process for the wood is of crucial importance.
不僅是這種藝術加工承載了文化符號和傳統,甚至連木材的選擇過程也至關重要。

Boomerangs are still made by artists in the indigenous community and are popular tourist souvenirs in the country. But most of the boomerangs that tourists carry back home are not made by local communities but mass produced - in many cases not even in Australia.
土著部落的藝術家們仍然在制作回旋鏢,在澳大利亞,這是一種非常受歡迎的旅游紀念品。但是大多數游客帶回家的回旋鏢都不是當地部落制作的,而是批量生產的,甚至很多并非產自澳大利亞。

 

香奈兒奢侈回旋鏢惹怒澳大利亞土著,被指侮辱文化傳統

 

The Indigenous Arts Code launched a campaign earlier this year to ban imported fake artefacts.
今年早些時候,“澳洲土著藝術規范”組織發起了一項禁止進口假冒手工藝品的活動。

The whole point, Ms Sullivan explains, is that "mass-production is taking away the potential for aboriginal people and artists to sell authentic products."
沙利文解釋說,“批量生產的回旋鏢搶走了土著人和藝術家制作的正宗回旋鏢的市場。”

The lack of cultural sensitivity combined with the hefty price tag is a perfect set-up for cynicism and ridicule.
缺乏文化敏感性再加上高昂的價格,這簡直是招來冷嘲熱諷的標配。

So what should Chanel do? The backlash on social media in the past two days since the boomerang appeared on their website has already sparked a first reaction.
那么,香奈兒該怎么應對呢?自從該品牌的回旋鏢出現在其官網之后,兩天內就在社交媒體上引起了巨大反響,香奈兒也首次給出回應。

"Chanel is extremely committed to respecting all cultures, and regrets that some may have felt offended," the French company said in a statement.
該公司發聲明稱:“香奈兒非常致力于尊重所有文化,對某些文化可能產生的冒犯表示遺憾。”

The luxury copycat
奢侈的山寨品

But just being sorry might not cut it. The countless comments range from witty jokes to straight-forward criticism, calls for apologies but also demand for compensation.
但只是道歉可能不夠。從機智的嘲諷到直白的指責,無數評論不僅要求香奈兒道歉,還要求該公司進行賠償。

It's a demand that artist Bibi Barba couldn't agree more with.
巴爾巴非常贊同這項要求。

"They should donate the money they make with this to the campaign against fake culture so we can lobby the government to do something about this problem," she says.
她說:“他們應該把賣回旋鏢賺到的錢捐給打擊山寨文化的團體,這樣我們就可以游說政府對此采取措施。”

"This current case gets a lot of attention because it's Chanel. But it happens on a huge scale and it happens all the time. Not just with boomerangs but with paintings, didgeridoos and other things."
“當下這個案例得到了很多關注,那是因為主角是香奈兒。但是這種情況始終存在且規模巨大。不僅僅是回旋鏢,還有繪畫、迪吉里杜管(澳大利亞土著使用的一種樂器)和其他東西。”

And she points out the irony of the bigger picture.
而她從更宏觀的角度指出了這件事的諷刺性。

"Chanel and other luxury fashion brands hate it when people steal their logos and make copies of their products."
“香奈兒以及其他的奢侈品牌最討厭別人盜用他們的商標,生產山寨產品。”

"So it would be a good point for them to make amends."
“所以,這也是讓他們作出賠償的好理由。”

事實上,近年來,眾多大牌對于跨界樂此不疲,接連推出各種與奢侈品毫不沾邊的天價商品。這種瘋狂撈金的做法在賺足眼球的同時,也受到了各界指責。比如,LV的防霾面具:

 

香奈兒奢侈回旋鏢惹怒澳大利亞土著,被指侮辱文化傳統

 

沙袋:

 

香奈兒奢侈回旋鏢惹怒澳大利亞土著,被指侮辱文化傳統

 

鉛筆:

 

香奈兒奢侈回旋鏢惹怒澳大利亞土著,被指侮辱文化傳統

 

卡地亞的玉米片:

 

香奈兒奢侈回旋鏢惹怒澳大利亞土著,被指侮辱文化傳統

 

愛馬仕的鋼筆:

 

香奈兒奢侈回旋鏢惹怒澳大利亞土著,被指侮辱文化傳統

 

英文來源:BBC
翻譯&編輯:董靜
審校:yaning


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